A Cinematic Sampling of Africa (and Frankfurt)

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5 videos, totaling 3 minutes and 26 seconds of the most insane footage that you’ve ever seen!

Not really. To be honest, I’m a horrible videographer. In many of my home movies, I have this strange, Blair Witch-esque obsession where I position the camera under my chin. I promise, I’m not that into myself – I just need to think a little more about how a short clip should be structured. Cheers to better video clips in the future!

1. Entering Germany for the first time. With a 6 hour layover, I hopped on the train into downtown Frankfurt for a little tour and a fierce hunt for food. Unfortunate for me – no food.

2. Taken on the drive from Lagos to Ibadan, Nigeria. Shola, my driver, talked so loudly that I often had to finger plug my ears. He is speaking to his sister in Yerba.

3. After a first day of surveying in Ibadan. I took a quick panoramic shot of the Ring Road traffic congestion.

4. In Kakum National Park in Accra, Ghana. Welcome to the rainforest canopy tour – what an amazing morning.

5. On the trail, I ran into a coconut and palm wine stand. After this guy chopped my up a sweet coconut, I downed enough palm wine to render me tipsy for the remainder of the hike. Nice!

10 Ridiculously Offbeat Destinations

Confession – I like to travel. I dream of distant lands, faraway places, bustling metropolises that vibrate to their own special, unique cultural beats. The world is a big place, and from the fiery Darvaza Crater in Turkmenistan to the remote Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Bhutan, I have amassed a hefty list of Places-To-Visit in my lifetime. Below are a few of the wilder ones.

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tristan-da-cunha

Tristan da Cunha Island
The loneliest island on Earth. With the nearest land mass 2430km away, Tristan da Cunha is as remote as it gets – so remote that cartographers cannot draw it on most maps.  The island, a mountainous and rocky volcanic outcropping, supports 270-odd British citizens. One telephone, one fax machine, and one mail delivery each year from the RMS St. Helena a year, the only mail ship in the world.

darvaza

Darvaza Crater – Darvaza, Turkmenistan
As locals say, the door to hell. It was 1971, and a group of Soviet geologists discovered an underground cavern in central Turkmenistan that was rich in natural gas. Unfortunately, the cavern collapsed, destroying the drilling rig and creating a large, yawning hole with a 60 meter diameter. More than 30 years later, the pit still burns, creating an apocalyptic landscape that, after dusk, attracts thousands of spiders from around the desert. I’m sure my mom would dig that.

manikarnika-ghat

Manikarnika Ghat – Varanasi, India
In 2006, I was fortunate enough to visit Varanasi, one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. According to Hindu mythology, Varanasi was founded by the Hindu deity Lord Shiva, and those that are cremated at the Manikarnika Ghat are supposedly granted instant nirvana. The city draws over one million pilgrims a year. The funeral pyres dominate the “burning ghat”, ghat meaning the flight of steps leading down to the Ganges River, and surrounding markets sell all the essentials required for a proper cremation – wood, ghee, clothing, offerings to deities, etc. It’s a wild experience.

namib-desert

Namib Desert – outside of Swakopmund, Namibia
Considered one of the oldest deserts in the world, the Namib Desert boasts some of the largest sand dunes in the world, making the location a sandboarder’s paradise. A paradise without foliage of course. The timeless and shifting dunes reach heights of over 300 meter, sure to challenge even the most skilled riders. Sounds fun!

blue-lagoon

Blue Lagoon – Grindavík, Iceland
One of the most frequented destinations in Iceland, the Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spa with an average water temperature of just over 100°F. Toasty. The superheated water is sourced near active lava flow and after being routed through turbines to generate electricity, the water is fed into the lagoon. The water is reputed to have medicinal properties, and bathers are required to adhere to a strict hygienic code, showering both before and after bathing. Don’t forget your towel.

atlantic-road

Atlantic Road – Norway (Atlanterhavsveien)
The Atlanterhavsveien, or Atlantic Road, is the second-most visited scenic road in Norway (after the Trollstigen), stretching 5 miles and connecting the island of Averøy to the mainland city of Eide. The road spans several small islands, landfills, skerries and eight separate bridges. Both tourists and locals can often be seen fishing for saltwater fish, mostly cod, directly from the road. Drivers beware. Fun fact – while the road was being built from 1983 to 1989, no less than 12 hurricanes hindered construction.

wadi-us-salaam

Wadi-us-Salaam – Najaf, Iraq
Wadi-us-Salaam is undoubtedly the largest Islamic cemetery in the world, home to the graves of many Prophets and revered followers of Islam. Located in Najaf, Iraq, one of Shiite Muslim’s holiest cities, nearly all Shi’as in Iraq request burial in Wadi-us-Salaam. Approximately 5 million bodies are already buried throughout the 1500 acre grounds, so personal space may be limited.

tree-of-life

“Tree of life” – Tsavo National Park, Kenya
Tsavo National Park was declared protected territory in 1948 and covers 8,200 square miles in southeastern Kenya. This acacia tree – deemed the “tree of life” – stands solo in the wild, thorny expanse of sun-blasted savanna. One can only imagine the paltry refuge it’s shade provides to animals seeking to escape equatorial rays. The image comes from Yann Arthus-Bertrand, a prolific French artist renowned for his aerial photography. What a shot, yea?

tigers-nest

Taktshang Monastery – Paro Valley, Bhutan
Talk about remote – Taktshang Monastery, or Tiger’s Nest Monastery, is located several hours away from Bhutan’s only airport. While you can walk close enough to snap some photos, you probably won’t be granted access inside. Erected hundreds of years ago on the side of a 10,000ft cliff, Tiger’s Nest is positioned precariously on a ledge 2,000ft above the valley floor. As outlined by national law, one cannot travel around Bhutan without a guide, and many tourists shy away from the daily costs associated with following these rules.

grand-bazaar

Grand Bazaar – Tehran, Iran
The Grand Bazaar is the world’s largest bazaar, with many corridors ranging over 10km in length. Despite historical significance throughout the 19th century as a hubbub of banks, mosques, financiers and guesthouses, most of the bazaar was constructed rather recently. In fact, you could call the Grand Bazaar one of the newest in the Middle East. Iranians trade, among other goods, precious metals, spices, paper, carpets, and a wide variety of modern products. Locked and guarded at night, the bazaar experiences peak traffic at midday and between 5pm-7pm in the early evening. Haggling is encouraged!

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Which places would you like visit?

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Kakum National Park + Cape Coast Castle

Five weeks and some change, and I find myself trudging laboriously through 5 inches of fresh, windswept snow. I missed Boston.

Africa wrapped up nicely. Last Wednesday, just before 5:30am, I awoke to the pitter-patter of light rain. The sky, still shadowed, appeared calm, but I was worried the weather wouldn’t hold. Francis picked me up at the hotel, and once we escaped the environs of citified Accra, I dozed off.  3 hours and 300km later, the rain had stopped, the sun had risen, and our car pulled into Kakum National Park. It was quiet – the kind of quiet one can only expect to find so far away from urban clamor.

Ghana (under British colonial rule at the time) passed its first conservation law in 1907 – banning the cutting of young trees of a certain size. Over the following decades, Ghana noted both endangered species and a dwindling supply of rainforest timber, so, in 1994, Kakum National Park opened with the goal of integrating environmental conservation and small enterprise development with community engagement and tourism. Today, many trails are available, and 410 species of butterfly have been discovered (I saw two of them!). The park also boasts the only rainforest canopy walkway in Africa – a route I was set on taking.

Kakum National Park is a protected area. It is necessary, then, to have a guide. I was ushered to an elderly group of four. Bill and Pauline and Jim and Margaret were from Kent, England, and I was happy to join their company. They were comical. Bill commented on the weather – “I don’t mind the rain. It is the rainforest after all” and Jim, explaining the psychology of the canopy tour to his wife, grinned –  “It’s an equation, my dear. Fun divided by terror, or something like that. Ha!” They were a riot. Lots of chuckling up the trail.

Rockson, our 15-year park veteran from central Ghana, led us to the start of the canopy walkway. Gesticulating with his hands, he pointed out seven bridge lengths that looped around in a sweeping arc, one of them 180 meters above the forest floor.

Bill, on the last leg of the walkway, declared:

You know, Alan. I used to have vertigo. Now, I am just shit scared.

I left my friends and walked back down the trail, knowing that my time was limited. I stopped at a coconut stand, and for about $1.25, purchased a coconut and a 20 oz bottle of locally fermented palm wine. By the time I got back to the car, I was tipsy, wishing I had bought more wine for the day.

Francis drove us to Cape Coast Castle, and I sobered up immediately after learning that the dungeon corner where we started our tour housed up to 300 men at one time. That room was damn small. I spent about 2 hours walking around the premises. It was an informative, emotional experience, learning about the brutal conditions in which American-bound slaves spent their final hours in Africa.

On Saturday, my flight did not depart until 8:10pm, so I had one final day of exploring. I spent the first half of that day at Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, a park and museum constructed in honor of Ghana’s first president. When I first walked in to the park, I was immediately approached by 30-40 school children who noticed my camera. It was intense – like a swarm of jubilant gnats, they surrounded me, pulled me, laughed and shouted and all the wonderful, playful things that a group of excited kids can do. I snapped a few photos, and each time I showed them their faces I triggered a new wave of hoots and howls. It was hilarious, but after a few minutes I was exhausted and had to duck away. My second pair of African-bought sandals had just snapped, and I asked the woman at the gift shop if she had any super glue. Before I knew it, she had grabbed a large rock and was hammering nails into the bottom of my right sandal. Whatever works.

In the museum, I was amused at all the images of President Nkrumah – with famous folk like Fidel Castro, John Kennedy, Queen Elizabeth and Mao Tse-Tung. I left the museum and spent the last few hours at Makola Market, a series of streets devoted to ready-made clothing, assorted fruits and vegetables, fabrics, household items – it’s vibrantly chaotic, beautiful and animated in the kind of way that you can only find in market-based economies.

I bid farewell to Francis, my trusty auto-guide for the week and wheeled my suitcase into the immigration line at Accra’s Kotoka International Airport.The immigration official and I shared an amusing exchange.

Official: So, you leave us now. We hope to see you again soon. Have you finished all the Ghana currency?

Me: Yes, yes I have.

Official: Why have you done this?

Me: Uh…[pause]

Official: Because I am standing right here you see – *wink* *wink*

Me: Next time I see you, I will make sure to have some left over, yea?

I spent my final minutes on African soil at the airport bar, sipping my locally brewed Star beer and thinking about the survey in its entirery. The beers propelled me into the inevitable hallucinatory state of 24+ hour travel. I remained alert enough to finish a German movie about a failed (and fatal) attempt of the Eiger’s North Face, falling asleep for the remainder of the flight. I spent a few hours in Frankfurt, and before I knew it, I was back in Boston, happy to unpack, unwind, and turn my mind off for the afternoon.

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That wraps up my February survey. I hope you enjoyed the posts! I have some fun things planned for the month of March, kicking off this Thursday with a list of unfrequented, rogue travel destinations. Gotta satisfy that travel itch before I leave again in late April!

Accra, Ghana: Land of Gold, Cocoa and Ant Hills

It was 12:42pm, and the air in the D-finger of the Lagos Airport was stale and musty, like the air you might find in a shadowy, backdoor staircase. The woman to my left was grumbling, audibly enough for me to turn my head, but not so loud as to wake the lightly snoring Saudi Arabian man to my right.

If he is wrong, we tear him to pieces! He offer himself as sacrifice and we tear him to pieces! We take off his belt and expose him. Ha!

The woman was referring to the Virgin Nigeria agent lumbering our way. It was over an hour after our scheduled departure, and until that point, not an agent was to be found. The 40-odd Accra-bound passengers had been lingering outside of an unmarked Gate 41, and while some of them didn’t seem to mind the idling, the woman to my left was determined to find out where our flight was. Thankfully, it was on the way.

I realized that it had been over two weeks since I had last flown – a lengthy duration for someone who normally bounces from city to city. In lieu of my traditional nap, I took the opportunity to ruminate on all that had happened during my previous two weeks in Nigeria.

How, on a balmy, traffic-typical afternoon in Lagos, my driver Shola was accosted by a street rascal targeting his tires with a rusty nail – Shola promptly socked him in the face, and we drove onward. How, after being asked to leave a supermarket twice, I went back two days later to sleuth all the prices onto my mobile phone. And how, over a two-day span, I was laughably stalked by Ginny, the relentlessly persistent prostitute.

Nigeria, what a riot.

A common blunder amongst us all is to lump the unknown together. To think of a place like Africa as a homogeneous, static continent- lions and tigers and poverty, oh my! I must confess that I can’t ignore this occasional tendency. After all, it’s much simpler to stereotype, right? A few hours in Ghana slapped some sense into me. Africa is a diverse, diverse, diverse place. Ghana and Nigeria are vastly different, and even now, after a few days in Accra, I must consciously force myself to reanalyze and recalculate my surroundings.

While Ghana means Warrior King, Accra’s city name is derived from the abundant anthills urban core. That’s right, folks, Accra, in a roundabout way, means ants. I haven’t seen any ant hills as of yet, but my eyes are prepared. Throughout the 18th century, Accra grew as a trade center, with gold, cocoa, and a variety of other commodities changing hands amongst the Portuguese, Swedish, Dutch, French, British and Danish. Fast forward a number of years, throw in a railway system, and Accra transformed from a fort-town into a modern city, now the administrative capital of Ghana. Today, Accra boasts infrastructure. Good schools, clean roads – Accra is a hubbub of progress.

Driving around the city, I am no longer aggressively besieged by howling hawkers – Hey, white man! – freed up from pushy selling and able to take deep breaths. Just yesterday I was sitting in the car, my bent elbow hanging outside the window, and I watched a chicken cross the road [insert joke here]. That made me happy. I continue to be amazed at the women with bulging bundles balanced on their heads. I surrendered to one of them and purchased some super glue for 60 cents, which I needed to repair the already-broken flip flops I had picked up in Ibadan.

My work, for the most part, is done, and since I don’t leave until Saturday evening, I have a few more moments of travel left, a few days to soak up some equatorial African rays, to see some sights, to reflect on the last month. Tomorrow I will be waking up early to visit the Cape Coast Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage site roughly 3 hours outside of Accra. The fortification played a major role during the trans-Atlantic slave trade as the holding grounds for African slaves. The number of African-deported slaves is remarkable – estimates range from 12 to 25 million – and many of them channeled through West Africa, spent their final days on the African continent cramped up in the dungeons of the Cape Coast Castle.

Should be a busy day. Check in soon.